As always, finished result first!
Step 1: Make some coffee, drink half of it, then make another batch because you were supposed to use it to stain the paper. Then, time to neutralize it!
Because coffee is very acidic, I want to try to neutralize it first because that will cause less damage to the paper over time. I use these cheap and simple PH test strips to check the PH value of the coffee first, and then I begin to gradually add baking soda to it.
I'll make sure to test the coffee after each time I add more baking soda to make sure I don't add too much.
Once the PH is at 7, we're good to go!
I pour the coffee into a deep baking tray, and then soak 2 pieces of A3 size sketchbook paper (110 gsm) at a time. I can only cook 2 pieces of paper in the oven at a time, and I make sure to add some parchment paper on those trays so the paper doesn't stick to it. I set the oven at 140 degrees celcius (284 fahrenheit), and I think the paper has to cook for roughly 5-7 minutes each. When I put fresh sheets in the oven I'll open it after about 2 minutes to let some of the moisture out, and then at maybe 4 minutes I take the paper out and flip it over so the other side can dry completely. Once the paper is completely dry with no damp spots I'll replace it with a new wet sheet. You can control how dark the stain is by leaving it longer to soak in the coffee, or if you want a lighter stain you can replace the coffee with black tea instead.
A stack like this of 48 sheets took me about 4 hours to make. As it's a pretty much continuous process I just put on a podcast and chill while I cook the sheets.
When all the sheets are done, I fold them in half and put them in my book press to flatten overnight. I fold them after staining because if I do it before, the fold will be a lot more brittle than the rest of the paper because the moisture gathers here, and so it would be more prone to tearing. If you air dry the paper instead it takes more space, but it dries flatter than in the oven.
After flattening the paper it becomes a lot easier to work with. At this point I already clamped the paper together and marked 6 horizontal lines on the spine of the book where I'll make holes for sewing. 4 of those lines will become ridges on the spine later.
I'm using an awl to make the holes because that makes cleaner holes, but it's also possible to use a saw.
Next I'll tie some jute cord to a square frame that'll act as my sewing frame. I then sew all my signatures (= a stack of paper, between 4-8 sheets - mine had 4) together around the jute cord, which will create the ridges on the spine. I used some waxed linen thread to do the sewing.
As you can see I used double jute cords for each ridge and twisted them - you can also use 1 cord to make less protruding and prominent ridges.
Next it's time to make and glue on the end sheets. I'm using some black 160 gsm cardstock. I just make a mark around an A3 size sheet (the same as my sketchbook paper) and cut it out with a pair of scissors.
For almost all the gluing in this process I'll use this white PVA glue specifically made for bookbinding. It's quite important to pick the right glue for this, as it has to stay flexible once it's dry.
I then apply about 1 cm of glue on one side of the folded end sheet, and attach it to my sewn text block.
I then put the text block into the book press again so that the end sheets will be glued on flat and nicely.
While that glue dries I'll make a satin ribbon bookmark that I've made a nice cut tail on. I seal that cut by poking it quickly into a little candle flame.
Then I apply glue to the text block first, add the ribbon, and more glue on top of that again.
When the glue has dried completely I move on to making the head- and tailbands. I used a 4 mm leather cord as the core, and 2 colors of embroidery thread to make them. There are some nice tutorials on YT if you want to learn how to sew these.
Then I apply some glue to the spine of the book...
... and add some fabric to strengthen it. I use a bone folder to shape the cloth properly around the ridges and the spine itself so that it sits tightly in place, and then apply another layer of glue on top of that.
Then it's time to make coverboards! Normally bookbinders use high density cardstock (that brownish gray type you've probably seen before), but I really like using wooden chipboard because it adds a bit of weight to the book. This one is 3 mm thick, and can be cut with a box knife or a saw. I measure the length of the cover trom the top of the headband to the bottom of the tailband, and the width from the spine to the fore-edge of the book + 5 mm.
The text block is dry and the coverboards cut, ready for assembly!
First I'll mark the front and the back cover, and then where the cords meet the cover.
I drill holes that are big enough for both the jute cords to fit through. First I drill through straight, and then at an angle so that the cords will lay as flat as possible against the cover.
I pull the cords from the outside to the inside, and then fray them once they're on the inside.
I apply some glue both underneath and on top of the cords. I add some parchmentpaper and a layer of cardstock between the text block and the cover - the parchment paper to make sure the glue doesn't stick to the end sheet, and the cardstock to soak up any excess moisture from the glue so the end sheet doesn't warp.
I apply some glue to the cords on the outside as well, add some parchment paper on top of that, and then pop it back into the bookpress to dry overnight.
After taking it out of the book press, the cords are laying nice and flat!
Ready for leather!
I use 1 mm vegetable tanned goat skin leather for this. I cut out the piece I need with a box knife, and made sure to mark the spine of the book on the inside of the leather. I then pare the leather around all the edges (thinning it down) to make it easier to fold around the edges of the book. I also cut the leather a bit shorter at the part where the spine will be.
I then case the leather (soak it in water to be able to shape it), apply some glue to the spine of the book and the inside of the leather hide.
After spending some time aligning the leather I'll pull it down over the spine, and start shaping the leather around the ridges using a bone folder. After getting the leather shape right, I wrap some thin cord around the ridges and leave it to dry for a couple of hours.
In the meantime I start working on the belts that'll keep the book closed.
I use a edge beveler to make the edges nice and rounded, first of all.
Then I burnished the edges with a burnishing tool and some water. I also made sure to make the holes I needed for the buckle with a hole punch before proceeding.
Then, leather dye! I used Fiebing's "Light Blue" leather dye for this.
And finally, using double cap rivets to attach the buckles.
Two finished belts, good to go!
The only reason I attach the belts now before gluing on the leather is because the rivets I have can only be used on thicknesses between 3-6 mm, so I have to attach the belts now.
After that I glue the leather to the covers.
I make sure to use a bone folder to flatten the leather properly.
Then I use some contact cement to fold in the edges - this is mainly because it dries a lot quicker than the bookbinding glue. Then I pop it back into the book press to dry.
Next: carving! Again I have to case the leather first, then draw on my design and use a swivel knife and other tools and stamps to make the pattern.
This is the most satisfying part; staining! Check the video above for some chill shots of this process! Again I used the Light Blue Fiebings dye.
I also used some extra black stain on the backgrounding parts of the carvings.
Finally; gold leaf and detailing! I use this leaf primer to attach the gold leaf, and it's pretty handy because you just paint it on, so you can make any shapes you want with it.
Applying the faux gold leaf......
... some corner protectors...
... and some metal ornaments (using two component epoxy glue for these). The final touch is just to seal the gold leaf with some coating varnish, and apply some leather wax to the surface!
